Ancient Ruins on Turkey’s Southern Coast

Some of the best ancient sites in Turkey are the ones you might not have heard of. Homer made the city of Troy famous, but there isn’t much to see there; elsewhere on the western coast, busloads of tourists swarm over Ephesus. By contrast, many of the ruins littering the country’s southern stretches feel untouched by modern life. From classic Greek theaters and Roman baths to the less familiar but equally striking Lycian tombs, they span thousands of years. 

Many sites in the area can be accessed only by foot or boat, and the journey through the rugged Mediterranean landscape heightens the experience. Itineraries might include hiking on the Lycian Way and cruising in local boats called gulets. In order to maximize our two weeks, we based ourselves in the towns of Antalya, Kaş, and Fethiye, using buses and boats for day trips. All sites are marked on our Google map.

The Lycian Coast

The area between the cities of Fethiye and Antalya was known to the ancient world as Lycia. Mythologized by Homer as fierce Trojan allies, the Lycians established a democratic league of city-states which long outlasted those on the Greek mainland. Today their settlements form a chain known as the Lycian Way. Sunken cities, stone tombs, and necropolises cut directly into the rocky landscape make a dramatic if eerie counterpoint to the jewel-toned water. The region continued to thrive under the Romans, who expanded many of the towns – and absorbed Lycian culture into the empire. 

Kaleiçi, Antalya’s Old Town 

Antalya’s historic center dates to the second century BCE and features remnants of the city’s ancient Roman and medieval periods. A gap in the old city walls accommodates Hadrian’s Gate, a triple-arched ceremonial entry constructed for the Emperor during his tour of the provinces in 130 CE. By the water, the stubby Hıdırlık Tower dates to roughly the same time. It began as a mausoleum, then became a watchtower, and finally a lighthouse; at present it’s under restoration. 

Antalya Archaeology Museum

The city’s archaeological museum is one of the best in Turkey. Most of its collection comes from nearby Perge (described below). Visiting the ancient site before the museum gives context to the statues of Greek gods and goddesses, Roman portrait busts, and sarcophagi with graphic depictions of war. Since the collection is huge, we took an ice cream break under a trellis in the outdoor sculpture garden while members of the local cat colony lounged by stone versions of their larger cousins. The museum is an easy seaside walk or tram ride from Old Town.

Perge

Perge offers the chance to see an ancient Greco-Roman city without the distraction of large crowds. Walk down a deserted avenue or stand in the empty pool of a monumental bathhouse; brush aside the gravel and find mosaics underneath. Tour groups tend to stick to the very front of the city, and they’re in and out pretty quickly. We had the place to ourselves for the better part of an afternoon in late May.

Settlement at Perge goes to at least the fifth millennium BCE. The oldest remaining structures are a pair of monumental Greek towers marking the city’s boundary. Without a defensive wall, local residents had no choice but to welcome Alexander the Great in 333 BCE. The city flourished in Roman times, especially during the Pax Romana when Augustus and his successors constructed numerous monuments such as the stadium and baths.

Romans took city planning to a new level, adapting a standard grid system to the local environment. Here one of the two main roads has a water channel running down the middle, supplying the baths and fountains. Romans first began creating colonnaded streets in Asia Minor (modern-day Turkey), and the examples in Perge are especially striking. 

Perge’s great Grecian theater is up the road from the main site. Romans renovated it in the second century BCE, adding a third level and expanding the capacity to 12,000 spectators. The carved friezes behind the stage depict various gods and goddesses.

We boarded the modern tram line (AntRay) at İsmetpaşa and got off at Aksu. From there it was a 20 minute walk to the archaeological site. Since it got fairly hot, we took a taxi back to the station.

Termessos

One of the most dramatic sights we’ve ever visited, Termessos is not easily accessible via public transport. Those traveling without a car must either find a group tour or hire a taxi. We splurged on the latter but felt it worthwhile since we encountered only a few people at the site. Wandering through the dappled light of Mediterranean shrubs and trees, we had plenty of time to ponder the settlement’s remote location. Initially the mountainside seemed an odd choice, with little chance for farming or convenient trade. 

Eventually we confronted a wall of boulders surrounding the lower precinct. Inside, bees tended the purple thistle gradually taking over the ancient gymnasium and baths. Further uphill, we scrambled up piles of rubble in the temples to the top of their walls. We walked along the remains of a colonnaded street, now a petrified river of tumbled carvings. None of it prepared us for the theater, a site so spectacular that the town’s remote location instantly made sense.

In spite of the Hellenistic architecture, Termessos was never a Greek town. In fact its inhabitants – a local people called the Psidians – proved fierce enough to repel even Alexander the Great when he swept through Turkey in the fourth century BCE. 

A few ruins cluster around the parking area, but the main town lies about a 20 minute hike up a rough trail. Bring plenty of water and plan to spend at least several hours.

Kaş 

Kaş was known as Antiphellos when it belonged to the Lycian League. Several sarcophagi sit right in the middle of town, including one on a pillar with the curving top distinctive to the region. Further inland, a few rock-cut tombs peer down from the mini-mountain.

On the western edge of town paths wind through an old olive grove to the ancient Greek-style theater. Heavily restored, it feels both old and new – especially when yoga groups use the wooden stage in the morning.

Myra (Demre)

The town now called Demre sits on top of the ancient settlement of Myra. On the outskirts, an archaeological site offers a double dose of history. Besides the most impressive set of Lycian rock-cut tombs anywhere, there are also Roman remains including the largest theater in Lycia.

There isn’t much left of the original Acropolis, but a city of the dead cut into the cliff face continues to look down over the less-ancient Roman structures. They look so natural, it’s easy to forget their inaccessibility. Their location high up on the cliffs was meant to encourage winged creatures to carry the souls of the dead to the afterlife.

The most extensive group is called the Sea Necropolis, located just west of the theater. The River Necropolis, which includes the celebrated Painted Tomb and Lion’s Tomb, lies about 1.5 km east of the main site. Altogether there are 104 tombs, most dated to the fourth century BCE. 13 of them preserve the Lycian script, which was replaced by Greek around 200 BCE.

We took a bus from Kaş to Demre. From the otogari (bus station), it’s a 30-minute walk to the archaeological site; taxis are also available. En route, we passed long lines at the entrance to St. Nicholas Church. The original Santa Claus founded it in the fourth century, but the building standing here today has been rebuilt many times.

Kekova Island and the Sunken City

In the second century, an earthquake submerged the ancient settlement on Kekova Island. Although it was rebuilt, the location’s vulnerability during Arab incursions forced residents to abandon it during Byzantine times. The sunken sections cover a wide area; boat trips like the one we took from Kaş cruise slowly past some stretches, and stop in the part where swimming is permitted. Those interested in exploring the area at their own pace can rent sea kayaks or canoes from the nearby village of Kale.

Simena (Kaleköy, Kale)

One of the best places to get away from the world must be the historic hideaway facing Kekova Island. Although its name changed from Simena to Kaleköy (locals call it Kale), the tiny village is still only accessible via boat or hiking trail.

Shallow water – more celadon than turquoise – is perfect for wading, and one old sarcophagus rises right out of the water. Some restaurants cluster nearby, with low cushions arranged on jetties. Behind them, tiny pathways criss-cross between the houses up the hill to the Byzantine-era castle. Built by the Knights Hospitaller on top of ancient foundations, it offers views of the coast as well as Lycian necropolises scattered about the settlement. 

Lycian Tombs of Telmessos

The modern town of Fethiye was once known as Telmessos (not to be confused with Termessos, near Antalya). A cluster of rock-cut tombs can be seen from the street running along the hillside. It’s worth paying the small ticket price to see them up close. Set slightly apart from the rest, the temple-style Tomb of Amyntas turns out to be much larger than it seems from afar. Like the so-called ‘house tombs’ it imitates wooden architecture – right down to carved nailheads – and also incorporates sculptural friezes. The scroll-shaped capitals were first used in Ionic temples  on Turkey’s western coast.

Other ancient pieces are mixed piecemeal in Fethiye’s modern town. The largest single sarcophagus tomb in Lycia, which once stood in the sea, now makes an odd accent to a parking area between some hotels. Near the hillside necropolis, we found a sarcophagus in the middle of the road and a set of smaller tombs in the adjacent park.

Other Sites

It would take months to visit all the ancient sites on the Lycian coast. Near Antalya, there is the heavily-restored Roman theater at Aspendos and beach-side ruins of Phaselis. Between Kaş and Fethiye, the road follows settlements clustering along an inland valley. From the Roman port town of Patara, it runs past the Letoön sanctuary and hilltop Xanthos (both UNESCO-listed). Pınara and Tlos are just two of many more remains further north. West of Fethiye, the popular river town of Dalyan has rock-cut tombs at Kaunos.

Further Reading

For more on the area, see our Guide to the Towns of the Turkish Coast.