The Temples and Gardens of Kyoto’s Philosopher’s Path

Kyoto’s superabundance of historic sites can be overwhelming – especially factoring in transportation and crowd levels. The Philosopher’s Path invites everyone to stop dashing about. With a string of exceptional temples and shrines along a tree-lined canal, the path eliminates logistical concerns, letting us all relax into the sublime world of the city’s architecture and gardens for hours on end.

The Philosopher’s Path (Tetsugaku No Michi) takes its name from philosopher Nishida Kataro, who made the two-kilometer route part of his daily commute to Kyoto University. It runs along the edge of the city’s Northern Higashiyama district, tucked between Yoshida Hill and the eastern mountain chain. The path follows a small canal from the foot of Ginkaku-ji (a.k.a. the Silver Pavilion) down to the vicinity of the Nanzen-ji temple complex, near several museums and the border of the Gion neighborhood. All sites are marked on our Google map.

With settlements dating back thousands of years, it’s not surprising that time functions a little differently in the neighborhood. Many spots have held a shrine, temple, or tomb for centuries – and often they’ve been reconstructed so many times that their apparent age doesn’t matter much anymore. We spent several hours exploring the area, which offers teahouses and cafes as well as historic properties and some quiet residential patches.

For much of the year, the Philosopher’s Path doesn’t get serious crowds. The primary exception is in early spring, when the cherry trees lining the canal attract swarms of blossom fans. Some of the temples – particularly Nanzen-ji and Eikan-do – are popular spots to admire bright foliage in the fall. Those who visit around early June may be able to catch fireflies at night, especially when it’s humid. On an afternoon in early May, we encountered only a few other tourists. One local was weaving miniature boats to carry flowers down the canal, like little offerings.

Outside of seasonal fluctuations, it’s worth planning around consistent throngs at the Silver Pavilion. For this reason, we recommend starting the Philosopher’s Path at the northern end, preferably arriving early enough to see the Silver Pavilion when it first opens. Besides the main sites presented below, there are countless small temples and shrines to explore on the lanes to either side of the Path. These are best discovered on the spot.

Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion)

Temples and palaces alternated on the site for centuries until the tumultuous end of the 1400’s, when shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa masterminded the current iteration as a refuge from the war-torn city. While he may not have provided much political leadership, Yoshimasa sponsored an artistic movement with a huge influence on everything from poetry and tea ceremonies to architecture and garden design. His “retirement villa” was turned into a Zen temple when he died in 1490.

Visits to Ginkaku-ji follow a circular route which begins next to the iconic Kannon Hall, better known as the Silver Pavilion. Although Yoshimasa used his grandfather’s Golden Pavilion as a model, there is no evidence he planned to coat it in silver. One theory for the nickname suggests that it may have appeared silver in the moonlight when it had a coat of black lacquer. The Silver Pavilion and the nearby Togudo are the only two structures surviving from the original ensemble.

Ginkaku-ji’s most dramatic garden elements, probably added in the 17th century, make a striking juxtaposition with their more natural-looking setting. In the Sea of Silver Sand, sharp stripes contrast with a curving boundary. The Moon Viewing Mound somehow transforms sand particles into an abstract version of a mountain.

As the route climbs up the hill, the garden becomes less manicured. Bamboo surrounds the path leading past assorted small shrines and up to city views. Winding back down, the loop passes through a moss garden before emerging on the other side of the Silver Pavilion.

Ginkaku-ji’s crowds may be mild compared to the circus at Kinkaku-ji and its Golden Pavilion, but they can feel a bit jarring after the serenity of the Philosopher’s Path. As noted above we strongly recommend visiting first thing in the morning or in the off season.

For visiting information see the Ginkaku-ji website.

Honen-in

The grounds of Honen-in once held a thatched hut occupied by one of the most important figures in Japanese Buddhism. Honen (1133-1212) founded the first independent Pure Land sect, with a streamlined approach to enlightenment based on chanting.

Honen’s dedication to helping the less privileged classes find salvation is echoed in the temple’s appearance. Instead of gold and elaborate ornamentation, this wooded retreat celebrates rusticity.

At the entrance, a thatched gate with moss on the roof evokes Honen’s hut. The path then passes between a distinctive pair of compacted-sand mounds with seasonal designs traced on top. Beds of sand generally symbolize water in Japanese gardens so these twin ‘pools’ are said to cleanse the mind, similar to ritual washing.

Continuing into the gardens, modern art is mixed in with traditional elements. The temple split from the Pure Land sect in 1953, but continues to emphasize outreach. The current abbot actively promotes sanga (a Sanskrit term for community) with frequent art exhibitions and concerts on site, as well as guided nature walks in the area. (Sadly for us, the latter are in Japanese only.)

Honen-in is open 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, free of charge. For about a week every spring and fall, some of the buildings open to the public. The temple does not currently have a secure website for us to link to.

Eikan-do (Zenrin-ji)

One of our very favorite temples in Kyoto, Eikan-do has a full range of gardens, a slew of celebrated artwork, and exceptional architecture. Its unique layout takes advantage of the sloped site, with each of its structures on a different level. Covered corridors and paths snake around the buildings, allowing intriguing glimpses of higher and lower sections.

Landscaped scenes emerge with every turn, each cultivating the light differently. For instance, the Zen garden uses white sand pressed into geometric shapes to contrast with the dark wooden Karamon Gate. Elsewhere, a layering of radiant maples makes a miniature canyon glow green. The property is celebrated for its fall colors, but spring sunlight highlights fresh growth. Down by the large pond, we heard cries of “Bella! Bella!” from some Italians comparing the tones of different maple leaves.

Towards the top of the site, the Sui-kin-kutsu is a traditional device which uses a jar to turn dripping water into music. Beyond it lies the extraordinary Garyu-ro, or Sleeping-Dragon Corridor. Built without nails, the covered stairway traces the contours of the hillside with sinuous curves. It leads up to the Tahoto, a pagoda form with just two storeys found only in Japanese temples built during the Heian Period.

The temple dates to the ninth century, when it was known as Zenrin-ji. Later it was renamed in honor of Eikan (or Yokan), the 11th-century abbot who founded a hospital on the grounds. Famed for helping the poor and the sick, he eventually became part of the legend surrounding the site’s Buddha statue with its unusual turned head. The Looking Back Amida is housed in a hall covered with depictions of the Pure Land painted across the structure, recently restored to full vibrancy.

For visiting information, see the Eikan-do website.

Nanzen-ji

Nanzen-ji is a vast complex, with a dozen sub-temples both in and around the main precinct. As the headquarters of the Zen Rinzai sect, it retains a prominent role in Kyoto’s Buddhist community. The temple was founded in 1291, when Emperor Kameyama donated the site of his retirement palace. A century later, it was ranked above Kyoto’s five great Zen temples. Buddhism’s surging popularity during the period helped ensure Nanzen-ji’s expansion. Today the property is only a third of its original size, thanks to the Meiji government’s seizure of Buddhist properties in the 19th century.

Nanzen-ji’s massive Sanmon gate is the stuff of legends, featured in poetry and Kabuki theater as well as the movie Lost in Translation. The current version dates to 1628, when the original was rebuilt after one of the site’s many disastrous fires. A small fee allows access – via a very steep set of stairs – to the top, with panoramic views.

Jizo statues of indeterminate age dot the area, as shown on the left. The patron deity of children and travelers traditionally wears a red bib symbolizing protection.

The Hojo (Abbot’s Hall) has wonderful screen paintings with gold backgrounds, including Tiger Drinking Water. Its garden, designed by the multitalented Kobori Enshu in the 1600s, is considered one of the most accomplished Zen landscapes ever created. A bed of white stones commonly symbolizes water, and some people think the large rocks look like tiger cubs crossing the river: hence the nickname Tiger Cub Garden.

Like its neighbor Eikan-do, Nanzenji draws crowds for its blazing colors in the fall. Besides the foliage, the nearby canal also plays an important role in the complex. A Roman-style brick aqueduct continues to bring water from Lake Biwa to the city, with a small amount siphoned off to create a waterfall. The latter has been partially screened by maple leaves in a Japanese landscaping tradition called “waterfall hiding”. It can be contemplated from the atmospheric tearoom called Taki-no-ma (Waterfall Room).

Not all of Nanzen-ji’s dozen sub-temples are open to the public, and some require a separate entrance fee. On the main property, Nanzen-in features a classic 14th-century strolling garden with a pond said to be shaped like a dragon. Tenju-an and its celebrated gardens open for limited periods during the spring and fall. Nearby, Konchi-in has abbot’s quarters transported from Fushimi Castle, plus another dry garden by Kobori Enshu. More background on Nanzen-ji’s many smaller gardens (both new and restored) can be found on the website of landscaping company Ueyakato.

For visiting information, see the Nanzen-ji website.

Getting to and from the Philosopher’s Path

Accessing the northern end of the Philosopher’s Path is trickier than the southern end. Public transportation options for the Silver Pavilion require either a 30-minute walk to the train or navigating the bus network. The closest station is Demachiyanagi, on the JR Keihan Line running along the river. Ginkaku-ji’s website lists a number of bus lines which can be cross-referenced with stop locations on a map. Alternatively, Japanese taxis are easy and reasonably priced.

At the lower end of the path, the Keage Station (on the Tozai/red subway line) lies less than five minutes from the Nanzen-ji complex. Or one can follow other waterways to the ‘Museum District’ and down into Southern Higashiyama.

Further Reading

For more on Kyoto, see our post:

When to Visit Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari: Early Morning vs. Night