The Mosques, Synagogues and Churches of Toledo, Spain
Toledo’s Muslim heritage permeates the city, from its layout of tiny, winding streets oriented to keep it cool to the Arabic inscriptions within its fortified…
Vietri sul Mare: Ceramics and Beaches on the Amalfi Coast
No town with a teal donkey for a mascot can take itself too seriously, even if it happens to feature the Amalfi Coast as a…
Atrani: A Quiet Alternative on the Amalfi Coast
On a sunny September afternoon on the Amalfi Coast, we wandered up to a promontory with a wedding-cake Baroque church next to a geometric belltower….
Visiting Paestum’s Ancient Greek Temples
Southern Italy has been luring civilizations for thousands of years, only to wipe them out with catastrophe. Volcanic eruptions aside, the shifting coastline south of…
Salerno: an Ideal Base for Visiting Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast
Salerno starts at the ruins of an ancient castle perched on top of a mountain with commanding views of the Amalfi Coast. The rest of…
Staying in Santa Croce, Venice’s Most Authentic District
Even in the post-pandemic explosion of travel, not all of Venice is dominated by tourists. Around the swarming center, locals still gather in squares at…
Palladio's Architecture in Venice
The churches of San Giorgio Maggiore and Il Redentore feel like a shot of oxygen after trooping through the smoky light and elaborate ornamentation of…
A Guide to Rome’s Ancient Churches and Basilicas
Looking at Rome today, it’s easy to forget 1,000 years elapsed between the ancient Roman Empire and the city’s Baroque splendor. We’re often encouraged to think…
Borromini's Baroque: Rome Beyond the Gilt
It’s easy to overdose on gilt, colored marble, and cherubs when visiting Baroque buildings in Rome. The Roman church used excessive ornamentation to impress the…