A Day Trip to Modena
There’s more to Modena than cars and churches, but Ferraris and the UNESCO-listed cathedral tend to dominate most first visits. They certainly did on our…
Italy: North
Bologna: Architecture of the Red City
For those of us who tend to fixate on color, Bologna’s nickname of La Rossa might feel slightly misleading. The city is predominantly orange, while “The Red”…
Cannaregio, Venice's Most Relaxing District
Threading through Venice’s dim alleys and unexpected dead ends requires an act of faith. Even for those who enjoy labyrinths, navigating the city can be demanding….
Castello: Venice's Sestiere of Secrets
For most of its existence, Venice has been synonymous with secrecy, and no district embodies this better than Castello. Mysteries, illusions, and historic trickeries abound…
A Guide to Venetian Gothic Churches and Palazzos
Venetian architecture doesn’t follow the same patterns as anywhere else. Nothing illustrates this better than the city’s most iconic style, which goes by the rather…
Staying in Santa Croce, Venice’s Most Authentic District
Even in the post-pandemic explosion of travel, not all of Venice is dominated by tourists. Around the swarming center, locals still gather in squares at…
Palladio's Architecture in Venice
The churches of San Giorgio Maggiore and Il Redentore feel like a shot of oxygen after trooping through the smoky light and elaborate ornamentation of…
A Day in Genoa: From Ferries to Funiculars
Genoa’s nickname La Superba means “the Proud” but compared to the other great Italian city-states, it’s surprisingly down-to-earth. The city’s refreshingly low levels of tourism are somewhat…
Staying in Riomaggiore: a Guide to the Best of Cinque Terre
For the last few decades, one of the more popular destinations in Italy has been the Cinque Terre, five beautiful little villages tucked into the…