Traveling Sicily Without a Car
For the first time visitor, planning a trip to Sicily can feel daunting. Most guidebooks recommend renting a car, but a Sicilian road trip poses…
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Norman Sicily: The Cathedrals of Cefalù and Monreale
When Richard the Lionheart and the Crusaders stopped in Sicily en route to Jerusalem, they found a startlingly cosmopolitan society. Christian women wore the latest…
A Guide to Palermo’s Architectural Curiosities
I made it less than five minutes on Palermo’s Via Maqueda before I had to stop and do a slow 360-degree turn. On either side…
Building Back Baroque in Ragusa, Sicily
If your city was leveled by an earthquake, would you rebuild in the same spot or start fresh on the next hill over? This was…
Ortigia, the Ancient Greek Heart of Syracuse
On our first morning in Syracuse, we stumbled to the nearest cafe for coffee and a bite to eat. Sunlight streamed onto the tables outside…
Seville's Architecture: an Islamic Legacy
Before the Inquisition and before Spain’s heyday as the gateway to the Americas, the Iberian Peninsula flourished with an exhilarating jumble of cultures. Muslims called…
Islamic Architecture and Enlightenment in Córdoba's Mezquita
The best way to experience medieval Spain is through its architecture. The buildings of Córdoba are a physical manifestation of the cultures who lived there,…
Lucca and Pisa: a Tale of Two Romanesque Cities
Once upon a time, two Tuscan city-states grew rich from trade. They used their wealth to build a slew of cathedrals, towers, piazzas, and palaces…
Historical Fiction Series: Europe From Ancient Rome to the Renaissance
Looking to fill time until it’s safe to travel again? If you’ve gone through all the movies and TV series on your list, or if…