A Guide to Lenno, Lake Como’s Most Idyllic Town
For many, Lake Como’s most scenic stretch lies between Tremezzo and the island of Comacina, with the town of Lenno right in the middle. The shoreline features both intimate coves and grand views, pebble beaches and formal parks, waterfront cafes and wooden jetties. Moving inland, elegant villas alternate with colorful warrens of stucco and stone, their twisting cobblestone alleys gradually giving way to olive groves, farms, meadows, and the occasional monastery.
Most visitors pass through Lenno to reach the nearby Villa del Balbianello and its cinematic gardens. Surprisingly few stay to explore the town itself, which retains the ambiance of a secret hideaway. We fell for Lenno on our 2023 trip and spent five nights here on our most recent visit to Como.
Lenno is ideal for short visits or longer stays. It has regular ferry service, but not enough to serve as a major hub. Visitors will find a nice selection of places to eat and stay, but it’s not over-touristed. All sites are marked on our Google map.
Orientation
Located on the northern shore of Como’s western leg, not far from the lake’s center, Lenno is one of four interconnected towns which form the commune of Tremezzina. (The others are Tremezzo, Mezzegra, and Ossuccio.) Lenno itself encompasses a handful of smaller micro-villages, sprawling out from the peninsula behind the Villa del Balbianello.
The closest thing to a town center is the piazza behind its rounded harbor. Ferries use the pier at the end of the promenade, near a shallow gully for releasing seasonal streams. Vehicular traffic is largely confined to the Via Statale, running along the ancient Roman route down the side of the lake.
Lenno’s Harbor
Tucked behind the wooded hill jutting into the lake, a cozy cove with assorted small boats forms one of Lake Como’s most relaxed harbors. A promenade runs around the shore, lined with umbrella pines and benches. Besides several spots to enjoy a drink, the harbor has restaurants ranging from a casual pizzeria to fancier fare as well as the all-important gelateria.
Colorful palazzos line the water near the peninsula, most sporting the stenciling typical of the region. Nearby a small piazza connects the water to the road, providing a backdrop for the Chiesa di Santo Stefano. Built over the remains of ancient Roman baths, the church stands out primarily for the way other buildings encroach upon it from all sides. Across the square, the 11th-century octagonal Baptistery is a sweet little Romanesque structure topped by a simple dome.
By the ferry pier at the end of the harbor, a sign for the Hotel San Giorgio leads to Lenno’s public beach (spiaggia). As with all such spots in Como, there’s no sand. Instead, it features a grassy area with expansive views, followed by a long stretch of pebbles. The hotel maintains a snack kiosk for spontaneous picnicking, and there always seems to be at least one dog having the best day ever.
Villa del Balbianello
Perching on the tip of its own peninsula and screened from the mainland by a wooded hill, the Villa del Balbianello is a world unto itself. Surrounded by water in nearly every direction, dramatic slopes create a constantly-shifting landscape where every element seems designed to complement the property’s natural beauty. One path lined with trees and statues accentuates the curve of a hill; another twists to suddenly reveal a cliff-backed cove. Most of the buildings blend into the landscape with walls of climbing greenery and generous amounts of stonework.
As the setting for not one but two cinematic franchises, some visitors see the Villa del Balbianello more as a backdrop than a garden. For instance, we noticed people tossing extra clothes on the plants while they posed for pictures. Those who associate gardens with serenity should try to visit at the end of the day, as crowds thin significantly after 5 p.m.
Walking to the villa along the wooded path from Lenno takes about half an hour. The route is moderately sloped but pleasant. Alternatively, boat shuttles run between an overcrowded landing at the base of the villa and Lenno’s harbor.
For more information on the Villa del Balbianello, see our post on Lake Como’s Most Extraordinary Gardens.
The Greenway Trail (Greenway del Lago di Como)
Lenno makes it easy to explore the hamlets dotting the slopes of Lake Como, thanks to its location in the very center of the renowned Greenway del Lago di Como. The ten-kilometer trail runs from Griante to Colonno, encompassing both shoreline and hillside sections.
Heading north from Lenno towards Tremezzo and central Lake Como, the trail runs along the public beach by the harbor before crossing the main road and climbing into the hills. We passed grazing cows and a roadside shrine before hitting the Belvedere di Mezzegra, where a Baroque church and a football pitch command spectacular views.
To go down the western leg of the lake towards Isola Comacina, take the path running along the edge of the wooded peninsula. (Look for Greenway signs near the ticket office for the Villa del Balbianello.) After passing behind some grand estates, the trail rejoins the waterline in the hamlet of Ossuccio. The 11th-century church of Santa Maria Maddalena – with a spectacularly quirky top-heavy belltower – marks the descent from the main road down to a flower-strewn waterline promenade. The lake’s only island sits just offshore, and gives the slopes behind it a distinctive feel. Tucked behind its lush green slopes, they have the air of a hideaway, timeless and unspoiled.
Plentiful blue-and-yellow signs and metal trail markers set in the ground make navigating the Greenway straightforward even without a map. In terms of difficulty, the trail falls between a stroll and a hike. Like most of Lake Como, it has a fair number of stairs and plenty of cobblestones.
Resources and Further Reading
We stayed at Lenno’s Hotel San Giorgio, family-run for over a century. The property includes an expansive lakefront garden as well as wonderful indoor spaces such as an old-fashioned library and game area. Menus in the restaurant change every few days, though we happily ate the vegetarian lasagna on multiple nights.
C10 buses running between Como and Menaggio stop along the main road but get extremely crowded during warmer months.
Hiking trails abound in the region, particularly around Tremezzina. One of the most popular short paths leads out to the 12-century Acquafredda Abbey. The website mylakecomo.co is a good place to find more trails.
For more on the area, see our posts:
A Guide to Ferries in Lake Como