Off the Beaten Path in Rajasthan, India

It’s easy to get caught up in Rajasthan’s major cities with their colossal monuments and over-the-top opulence, but we didn’t begin to truly appreciate the region’s richness until we ventured out into the smaller settlements and lesser-known sites. Away from the hordes and the horns, we discovered structures unlike anything we’d ever seen, from a temple built with butter to hundreds of domed memorials in the middle of the desert.

During our two weeks in Rajasthan, we mixed world-famous sites with places where we seemed to be the only tourists. The state’s attractions could easily fill several guidebooks and the following are only a sampling of what the region offers. We’ve marked them on a Google map, and included information on our itinerary at the end of the post.

Abhaneri
Bundi
Menal
Nagaur
Bikaner
Shekhawati: Mandawa & Nawalgarh
Planning a Trip to Rajasthan: An Itinerary
Further Reading

Abhaneri

One of India’s most striking sights is the stepwell, which collects vital rainfall in an inverted pyramid shape. In Rajasthan and the neighboring state of Gujarat, communal wells needed steep walls to avoid excess evaporation on the surface. Stairs criss-cross down the sides in order to make the slopes more manageable. The narrow, rail-less descent incorporated ritual worship at shrines carved into the stone. Upper sections of the baori served as gathering spots, particularly for women doing the washing.

At 13 stories deep, Chand Baori is the largest of its kind, as well as one of the oldest. It’s also a rare chance to compare early Hindu and later Muslim designs in a single well. Chand Baori’s lower levels date to the eighth century, although much of the original adjoining temple was destroyed later. Mughals turned the structure into a private palace in the 18th century, adding the upper levels and an arcade to screen off the surroundings.

Although Chand Baori is a popular stopover on the road between Agra and Jaipur, few tourists linger to explore the full site. Visitors originally washed their hands and feet in the well before worshipping at the adjacent temple. Dedicated to Harshat Mata, the goddess of joy, the latter was largely destroyed in the 10th century by Islamic invaders. The remains include a multitude of carvings scattered about on a raised platform with views of the countryside. The goddess’s glow inspired the town’s name: Abhanagri (City of Brightness) eventually became known as Abhaneri.

Bundi

A bit sleepy – insofar as an Indian city can actually feel sleepy – Bundi offers distinctive Rajasthani architecture without crowds. The local palace looms directly over town, with the semi-abandoned military Taragarh Fort stretching into the hills above. Compared to other regional fortresses this one has gone a little wild.

Although it’s neither the biggest nor the most opulent of the regional forts, we found it to be the most atmospheric. Rudyard Kipling described the structure as “the work of goblins rather than of men.” Even the inside seems to meld into the mountain. A maze of rooms and stairways leads to unexpected vistas and the occasional monkey den.

Locally-quarried stone with a greenish cast and plenty of aquamarine in the wall paintings reminded us of the light in the depths of the sea. Above the palace, screens protect the Chitrashala, with a lapis-hued cycle of murals depicting tales of Krisha. With less Mughal influence than other forts, Bundi features more of the region’s distinctive Solanki style. For instance, the wall brackets in the audience hall are carved into elephants rather than the more abstract shapes found elsewhere.

Visiting information for the palace and fort is on the website.

Bundi is also famous for its stepwells, with several different types clustered around the central bazaar. A small street separates the Nagar Kund and Sagar Kund, both of which feature steps running around the water on the sides. Both looked less pristine than they do in most photos – we stayed clear of the gap in the railing along a sheer multi-story drop.

Nearby, the Raniji ki Baori or Queen’s Stepwell presents a very different experience. Walled off from the street, a single expanse of stairs runs down between monumental walls with ornamental and devotional carvings. The long, almost processional form evokes the ancient Great Bath of Mohenjo-daro, an ancestor of the stepwell.

Other sites in Bundi include a magnificent 84-Pillared Cenotaph and a blue district which is smaller and easier to manage than its more famous counterpart in Jodhpur. Kipling wrote many of his classic Jungle Book stories when he stayed at the Sukh Mahal palace on the shore of a lake strewn with water-lilies.

Menal

Proof of Rajasthan’s superabundance of architecture and history: the 11th century temple complex at Menal isn’t even mentioned in most guidebooks. Even Wikipedia doesn’t have more than a stub about it, and our driver had never heard of it. We visited the site en route between Bundi and Chittorgarh, at the suggestion of the company who helped us plan our itinerary.

The pilgrimage site – dedicated to Shiva – was built several centuries before most of the region’s major monuments, in a style unlike anything else we saw on our trip. Instead of the sinuous curves and delicate silhouettes found elsewhere in Rajasthan, this complex uses distinct modules massing in various pyramidal shapes.

While most temple towers in northern India have a curve to them, this variation – known as the Bhumija style – keeps the sikhara nearly straight. The Mahanashvara Temple’s fractal design features tiers of mini-towers in the corners, echoing the larger spire. Besides the main temple, the primary site also includes the remains of a pair of eighth-century shrines.

The name Menal comes from “Maha Nal”, a reference to the gorge cutting through the site. During monsoon season the Menali River creates a waterfall next to the temple. When we visited in November the river bed was dry, allowing us to cross over to see the monastery on the other side.

Nagaur

Many travelers miss out on one of Rajasthan’s best experiences because they haven’t heard of Nagaur. The traditional name of Ahhichatragarh, or Fort of the Hooded Cobra, is a bit of a mouthful so English visitors often call it Nagaur Fort. At 36 acres it’s one of the larger complexes, although the flat terrain makes it difficult to grasp its full extent. The fort was begun in the 12th century on the ruins of a fourth-century trade settlement.

A recent award-winning restoration incorporates historically-accurate materials such as a wall paste made with sand and sheep’s hair. The work also emphasizes the fort’s climate management systems, a fusion of local and Mughal ingenuity.

Thanks to a variety of water collection systems and a carefully orchestrated sequence of recycling, this desert outpost could feature lush gardens and no fewer than 90 fountains. Rooftop wind towers redirect cooling air currents through the interior via wall pockets filled with sweetly-scented grasses. Floor channels carrying water regulate temperature and humidity, while fish-scale textures create musical splashing sounds. Even the regional penchant for mirrors works to brighten spaces with thick insulating walls.

Ahhichatragarh Fort provides knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides – what we learned here enhanced our understanding of Rajasthani architecture as a whole. Visiting information is on the website. The complex occasionally hosts events such as a sacred music festival. In retrospect we would have reserved a night in the Ranvas heritage hotel, housed in the palaces once shared by 16 queens.

Bikaner

Rajasthan’s Red City mixes some of the region’s more curious sights. Most visitors come to see the Junagarh – literally, Old Fort – or the luxury hotel at Lalgarh Palace. Some come to the area to experience rat worship at the nearby Karni Mata Temple.

We spent several nights in the historic center, where cows amble down near-deserted lanes surrounded by opulent mansions. Affluent Silk Road merchants erected these havelis in the 18th and 19th centuries, with delicate red sandstone resembling swathes of lace dipped in cinnamon.

Near the edge of the Old City, the 12th-century Bhandasar Jain Temple is swathed in crayon-colored paintings. According to legend, 40,000 kilograms of ghee (clarified butter) was used instead of water to mix the mortar. Some say it still oozes during hot weather.

Out at the Devi Kund Sagar royal cenotaphs, masses of umbrella-shaped memorials look strangely futuristic, especially void of people in the desert landscape. Red sandstone and white marble domes reveal still-colorful paintings on the inside, and the site even has a handful of modern iterations.

A surprising amount of information remains even for those who can’t read the inscriptions. For instance, slabs recording men’s names are placed vertically while the women’s go horizontally; childhood deaths are represented by an absence.

The National Camel Research Center, known to locals as the Camel Farm, provides a change of pace from pearl-encrusted palaces. The government-sponsored property houses several hundred camels plus a small museum, a shop selling products made with camel milk, and research facilities. The information provided isn’t terribly extensive, but we found the proverbial Ships of the Desert endearing – especially at feeding time or when the bright green parrots use them as a roost. Rajasthan’s five dromedary (single-hump) breeds include the Bikaneri, with a distinctive dark coat. See the website for visiting information.

Shekhawati: Mandawa & Nawalgarh

Rajasthan’s northeastern stretch features a series of small towns full of exquisite havelis (mansions) built by wealthy merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries. A prime spot on trade routes brought so much income to the area that locals vied for the fanciest homes. The most visible evidence remains in the paintings covering the structures, both inside and out. Mixtures of religion, history, folklore, and modernity include scenes like Krishna and Radha riding in a convertible limousine. The region has been called an “open-air museum”, and one could easily spend the better part of a week exploring all the havelis, not to mention temples, stepwells, and various other monuments. 

The havelis show how non-royals adapted the architectural conventions of palaces. Like Mughal-era fortresses, they feature monumental entryways leading to a series of courtyards anchoring distinct domestic spaces. Men conducted business and entertained in the first court, while women and children dominated the more secluded zenana. Larger mansions might have a third courtyard for servants, animals, and storage. 

The town of Mandawa, often used in film shoots, makes a good base. Besides its central location, it offers a number of hotels and restaurants as well as a range of sights within walking distance. Highlights include the local castle, the Golden Room in the Jhunjhunuwala Haveli, and the Gulab Haveli – whose facade mixes scenes of childbirth with formal portraits of family members. (Note: Many towns in Shekhawati have at least one haveli named Jhunjhunuwala, after the region’s old capital of Jhunjhun.)

Nawalgarh has hundreds of havelis, including the spectacular Dr. Ramnath A. Poddar Haveli and the Kamal Morarka Haveli, both now restored and turned into museums. Many owners have converted the properties into heritage hotels to help cover maintenance costs, and conditions range widely. A local guide took us to some unexpected venues, such as a mirror-encrusted space at the back of the local market and the Bansidhar bhagat ji ki Haveli with portraits of Queen Victoria and King George.

We stayed at the Roop Niwas Kothi, a heritage property just outside Nawalgarh which still breeds the region’s distinctive Marwar horses. 

Planning a Trip to Rajasthan: An Itinerary

While we normally attempt to use public transportation, the state’s vast size and often-remote monuments made hiring a driver the most practical option. One of our best decisions was to find an experienced travel company in India. TGS Tours provided our excellent driver as well as assistance with our itinerary and hotel bookings. The trip could not have gone more smoothly, and the price was less than most packaged tours. (Please note that this is not a sponsored endorsement.)

Travelling by car made it easier to spend as little as one night in some destinations. Our two-week trip to Rajasthan followed a loop, with 2 nights in Bundi, 1 night in Chittorgarh, 3 nights in Udaipur, 1 night in Ranakpur, 3 nights in Jodhpur, 2 nights in Bikaner, 1 night in Nawalgarh, and 3 nights in Jaipur before moving on to Agra and Delhi. 

Further Reading

For more on Rajasthan and environs, see our posts:

A Guide to Bikaner, India’s Unusual Red City

A Guide to Rajasthan’s Remarkable Architecture

A Guide to Rajasthan’s Most Epic and Historic Forts

The Architecture of Jaipur, India’s Pink City

The Architecture of Jodhpur, India’s Blue City

The Architecture of Udaipur, India’s White City

The Monumental Architecture of India’s Golden Triangle

The Architecture of Agra from Fatehpur Sikri to the Taj Mahal