A Guide to Rajasthan’s Most Epic and Historic Forts

The history of Rajasthani forts is the stuff of legends – with epic doses of valor, romance, and sacrifice – and also a textbook example of a society transitioning into the modern era. Over 100 defensive complexes lie scattered across the state, each one a microcosm of the regional culture.

Rajasthan’s forts range in size from small, castle-like compounds to entire hilltop cities. Their walls are often carved directly into rocky hilltops, but some straddle desert trade routes and a few lie hidden in remote forests or valleys. They encompass a whole range of purposes beyond military use. Palaces, gardens, and temples mix with schools, shops, and studios. Some still function as places to live and worship. Plenty of buildings have been restored with care while many more quietly decay.

Over the course of two weeks in Rajasthan we visited multiple forts, including the most iconic citadels and a few smaller sites. This post follows our route; at the end, we include advice on visiting the region.

Introduction to Rajasthan’s Forts: History, Legends, and Architecture
Chittorgarh
Kumbhalgarh
Jodhpur: Mehrangarh
Nagaur: Fort of the Hooded Cobra
Bikaner: Junagarh
Jaipur: Amer (Amber) Fort, Nahargarh
Bundi Palace & Fort
Jaisalmer and Other Forts
Visiting Rajasthan’s Forts: Practicalities
Further Reading

Introduction to Rajasthan’s Forts

Fortified cities were common in India by the fourth century BCE. A thousand years later, the mighty Gupta Empire dissolved under waves of incursions from central Asia. In the resulting feudalist territories, military advances – specifically the advent of gunpowder – required a whole new level of construction. Rajasthan’s clans began building the forts we see today as early as the fifth century, with the majority dating to between the 12th and the 15th centuries. They continued to grow through the reign of the Mughals and the British, both of which would influence their design. By the 20th century, most royal families had moved into more urban palaces, although villagers continued to inhabit some of the forts. Maintaining these colossal treasures falls to a patchwork network of government agencies and private trusts, often in conjunction with income from tourism. Many forts feature heritage hotels as well as museums.

A whole range of curiosities turn up again and again in Rajasthani forts, or garhs. Many have seven gates, often including one located to face the rays of the rising sun. These pols almost always have large metal spikes to deter elephant charges. Inside, labyrinthian layouts were designed to confuse potential intruders; the preponderance of mirrored surfaces also enhanced security.

Even modestly-sized forts often contain multiple palaces; apparently the maharajas preferred to build new suites rather than sleep in their predecessors’ chambers. Elephant motifs are everywhere, from wall paintings to carved brackets to giant statues. Several sites feature ceramic handprints commemorating the wives who followed their husbands’ corpses into the funeral pyre (a practice known as sati) or burned themselves en masse rather than submit to conquerors (called jauhar). Certain legends also repeat, particularly instances of someone being buried beneath the walls to avert a curse.

Chittorgarh

Tales of heroism and tragedy abound in Chittorgarh, a prominent symbol of India’s history. As the capital of the mighty Mewar dynasty for 800 years, the citadel witnessed countless battles – and on three occasions, mass self-immolation instead of submission. (Akbar is not considered “the Great” around these parts.)

Because the dynasty eventually abandoned Chittorg for Udaipur, the former preserves its medieval – and more purely Hindu – architecture. At least half a dozen of the site’s 19 major temples could be destinations in their own right; together, they represent perhaps the largest set of structures in Rajasthan’s distinctive Solanki style.

A steep, zig-zagging road leads up to the citadel. Walls measuring 13 km (eight miles) in circumference surround 65 historic buildings, including four palaces. 22 of the former 84 bodies of water remain, along with a population of about 3,000 residents.

Chittorgarh’s origins are unclear. The fort was probably built by and named after seventh-century ruler Chirtangada Mori, on the site of a complex built several centuries earlier. A handful of small Buddhist stupas from the ninth century were found near one of the lakes. Most of what remains today was built in the 12th century or later.

Padmini’s Palace is named after one of the fort’s most legendary denizens. Although the current version is a 19th-century reconstruction, it showcases the novel setting in the middle of a lake. The idea of surrounding a palace with water inspired countless other Jal Mahals in the region.

Perhaps the most spectacular – and certainly the most unique – structures in Chittorgarh are a pair of intricately-carved memorial towers, erected in the 12th and the 15th centuries. Long before modern skyscrapers, the Kirti Stambh (Tower of Fame), and Vijay Stambh (Tower of Victory) used metal rods embedded within the stone blocks to provide stability and prevent lightning damage.

Kumbhalgarh

After being forced to abandon Chittorgarh, the Mewar dynasty wanted something truly impregnable. According to legend a nursemaid sacrificed her own son so that the prince could be brought here from Chittorgarh, hidden away in a fruit basket. At a remote site high in the mountains, Rana Kumbha built his mightiest fort, with a wall system second in size only to the Great Wall of China. Supervised by renowned architect Mandan, the entire 36 kilometer (22 mile) wall and interior structures were completed in just 15 years. With relatively few additions and alterations in the ensuing centuries, it’s one of the most cohesive complexes in Rajasthan.

Bulbous towers at regular intervals along the wall’s length give it a strangely sculptural appearance; their rounded forms were designed to prevent scaling ladders. Inside, over 360 temples dot the landscape. A large group below the palace includes one with an unusual building-within-a-building configuration.

The remote location had been used as a fortress by the Maurya Empire in the second or third century BCE. The surrounding landscape has been designated a wildlife sanctuary, making it easy to imagine how it might have looked hundreds of years ago. Three royal palaces clustering around the highest peak offer spectacular views, particularly the aptly-named Cloud Palace (Badal Mahal).

Kumbhalgarh served as a refuge for the Mewars during for 109 years before capitulating to the Mughals in 1567. The Mewars eventually regained control, but by then they had already shifted their capital to the more-defensible city of Udaipur.

Jodhpur: Mehrangarh

Mehrangarh’s superhuman walls glow gold both by day and by night. In fact the name means Fortress of the Sun, and the city’s founders claimed descent from the sun god Surya. As the rulers of Marwar, Rajasthan’s largest kingdom, the Rathore dynasty made the fort into a leading cultural center for centuries.

Inside the spiked gateways, the architecture’s tone switches to luxury. Courtyards with red sandstone carvings provide shade. Most of the 13 spaces preserved in the complex date to the 17th or 18th centuries. In the ultra-opulent Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), golden paintings depict 36 ragas (melodies) as well as royal portraits and divine legends. One source asserts the artist mixed glue and cow urine to affix the gilt. Other rooms showcase collections of paintings and howdahs for riding elephants. An inspired pairing upstairs lines royals cradles down the middle of a hallway lined with jali (stone screens) for the women to watch court life below.

Poised midway between the stone walls of the main fortress and the city below, the gardens of Chokhelao Bagh are some of the loveliest in Rajasthan. Instead of raised forms, the layout uses pruned strips between planted areas to create the formal grid based on the four-part Islamic Paradise Garden. An upper area focuses on plants chosen to capture different seasons; the lower section was designed as a night garden.

The Rathore dynasty ruled from 1389 to 1949, and lived in Mehrangarh until 1943. By the time Indira Gandhi abolished royal allowances 30 years later, the fortress was inhabited largely by bats. Maharaja Gaj Singh II began funding for the monument’s restoration by selling the bat droppings to chili farmers as fertilizer.

For visiting information see the website.

Nagaur: Fort of the Hooded Cobra

Many travelers miss out on one of Rajasthan’s best experiences because they haven’t heard of Nagaur. The traditional name of Ahhichatragarh, or Fort of the Hooded Cobra, is a bit of a mouthful so English visitors often call it Nagaur Fort. At 36 acres it’s one of the larger complexes, although the flat terrain makes it difficult to grasp its full extent. The fort was begun in the 12th century on the ruins of a fourth-century trade settlement.

A recent award-winning restoration incorporates historically-accurate materials such as a wall paste made with sand and sheep’s hair. The work also emphasizes the fort’s climate management systems, a fusion of local and Mughal ingenuity.

Thanks to a variety of water collection systems and a carefully orchestrated sequence of recycling, this desert outpost could feature lush gardens and no fewer than 90 fountains. Rooftop wind towers redirect cooling air currents through the interior via wall pockets filled with sweetly-scented grasses. Floor channels carrying water regulate temperature and humidity, while fish-scale textures create musical splashing sounds. Even the regional penchant for mirrors works to brighten spaces with thick insulating walls.

Ahhichatragarh Fort provides knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides – what we learned here enhanced our understanding of Rajasthani architecture as a whole. The site occasionally hosts events such as a sacred music festival. The queens’ palaces have been converted into a heritage hotel.

See the website for visiting information.

Bikaner: Junagarh

Bikaner came into its own somewhat later than other parts of Rajasthan, which feels appropriate since it was founded by the second son of Jodhpur’s Maharaja. Rao Bika established his new dominion in 1472, at an oasis in the Thar Desert. In a major shift in priorities, he chose a flat location on a major trade route rather than a more defensible hilltop. A century later, the choice had paid off: the territory’s sixth ruler commanded enough wealth and power to construct a huge new fort in a mere five years (1589-94).

Raja Rai Singh introduced innovations in architecture and art based on extensive travel abroad, and his descendants continued to incorporate a broad range of styles. The 17th-century main courtyard features a Mughal-style pool rendered in Carrara marble imported from Italy. The 19th-century Badal Mahal, or Weather Palace, is a blue-and-white ode to monsoon rains painted in a style reminiscent of East Asia.

While a site like Chittorgarh shows a more purely medieval structure, Junagarh stands out for its continuous additions and adaptations over 16 generations. The oldest section is the Phool Mahal or Flower Palace, entered via a solid-silver door. In the Ganga Singh Hall, a weaponry museum houses a World War I airplane.

For visiting information see the website.

Jaipur: Amer (Amber) Fort

Amer Palace, the royal residence within the UNESCO-listed fort, is considered one of the greatest fusions of Hindu and Islamic architecture. While other Rajasthani fortresses were abandoned after defeat by Mughal armies, the Amer dynasty helped the community survive by pledging fealty to the new overlords. Mughal wealth and patronage promoted the arts, including a fruitful period in architecture. New influences from Islamic Asia, such as layered arches and vaulted ceilings, mixed with regional traditions such as elephant brackets and tiered towers.

Each of the palace’s four levels centers around a courtyard. Monumental gateways on the bottom control traffic in and out of the complex. The second level originally held large ceremonies and pageantry; today it handles ticketing and other services.

Most of the famous spaces, including the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), wrap around the formal Islamic-style garden on the third level. On top, the oldest level of the palace contains private spaces, including the womens’ quarters.

Like most Indian fortresses, Amer Palace is easy to get lost in without a guide – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. We found the more spectacular spaces by following the crowds, and checked them against a list we brought so as not to miss anything. But our most memorable moments happened while wandering alone on the upper level, where tiny walkways connect domed spaces and delicate screens allow glimpses of the valley below.

Jaipur: Nahargarh

Allegedly built to provide a place for Maharaja Ram Singh to spend time with his concubines away from his wives, the palace at Nahargarh Fort may be the world’s only love nest located within an “Abode of Tigers”. Perched on the hilltop directly over the Old City, the retreat commands stunning views.

The palace contains a labyrinthian series of rooms, painted but largely undecorated, with mysteries like walls hovering five feet over the floor. The real draw, however, is the top level where flat stretches of roof run between the many courtyards. Domes and curved bangla (or Bengala) roofs pop up to frame vistas of wooded slopes above the modern city. Next to the palace, a stepwell features organic curves instead of the typical square formation.

Bundi Palace and Fort

Bundi offers distinctive Rajasthani architecture without crowds. The local palace looms directly over town, with the semi-abandoned military Taragarh (“Star”) Fort stretching into the hills above. Compared to other regional fortresses this one has gone a little wild.

Although it’s neither the biggest nor the most opulent of the regional forts, we found it to be the most atmospheric. Rudyard Kipling described the structure as “the work of goblins rather than of men.” Even the inside seems to meld into the mountain. A maze of rooms and stairways leads to unexpected vistas and the occasional monkey den. Locally-quarried stone with a greenish cast and plenty of aquamarine in the wall paintings reminded us of the light in the depths of the sea. Above the palace, screens protect the Chitrashala, with a lapis-hued cycle of murals depicting tales of Krisha.

With less Mughal influence than other forts, Bundi features more of the region’s distinctive Solanki style. For instance, the wall brackets in the audience hall are carved into elephants rather than the more abstract shapes found elsewhere.

Visiting information is on the website.

Jaisalmer and Other Forts

The sheer number of Rajasthan’s forts can be daunting, but it also allows for a variety of itineraries. We opted to follow a circular route through the sites listed above so as to minimize travel time. Sadly that meant skipping Jaisalmer and its desert fort, a major architectural treasure. The golden-hued sandstone outpost dates to the 12th century and still houses thousands of families. Although some major buildings have collapsed, the fort includes seven Jain temples as well as some of India’s oldest libraries. Multiple havelis, some converted into hotels, showcase the sophisticated taste of merchant traders.

Other major forts in Rajasthan include the UNESCO-listed Ranthambore, tucked away in a hilltop forest in the middle of a tiger sanctuary. Its palace is one of the oldest in the state. UNESCO also lists Gagron, which sits at the junction of two rivers.

Visiting Rajasthan’s Forts: Practicalities

About half the forts above have websites with visiting information. Rajasthan’s regional tourism website posts summaries of various sites as well as fairs and festivals, but not specifics like opening hours or ticket prices. Major forts are typically open from around 9 a.m. to sunset. There is generally no need to reserve tickets in advance. For more specific information, we recommend checking with a tour company, hotel, or local tourist office. 

Most of Rajasthan’s forts can only be accessed by private vehicle. We hired a driver through the wonderful TGS Tours, who also helped us put together our itinerary. (Please note that this is not a sponsored endorsement.)

Few of the forts feature much signage, and many visitors use one of the guides-for-hire who congregate in front of major monuments. We generally prefer to do more research and explore on our own, even if we don’t know exactly where we are at all times. As mentioned above, our guide in Nagaur enriched the experience immensely, but we were less fortunate at Fatehpur Sikri near Agra. It’s also possible to hire guides through hotels and tour companies.

Further Reading

For more on Rajasthan and environs, see our posts:

 A Guide to Rajasthan’s Remarkable Architecture

Off the Beaten Path in Rajasthan, India

The Architecture of Jaipur, India’s Pink City

The Architecture of Jodhpur, India’s Blue City

The Architecture of Udaipur, India’s White City

A Guide to Bikaner, India’s Unusual Red City

The Monumental Architecture of India’s Golden Triangle

The Architecture of Agra from Fatehpur Sikri to the Taj Mahal